FAQs

Please be sure to lubricate your flexible shaft before the first use, and then check the lubrication every few weeks. This not only ensures the longevity of your shaft, but also makes it more efficient over longer distances.

Our preference for lubricant is basic machine oil. The reason we prefer using this is because it is capable of remaining stable in high heat. Many clients have reported that they use graphite grease, because it is cleaner, but personally we have never used it. Another less common option is compressor oil. The important thing to note is that you can use any type of lubricant as long as it doesn’t break down when it is heated.

We have created a video which shows how to lubricate your shaft: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPiVGudr_L0&t

The main difference between these two is that carbide brushes have tougher bristles and can be used to remove harder encrustations or to prepare a damaged pipe for relining. The nylon brushes are perfect for any clean out operations you may want to do, such as removing dust. You can also use nylon brushes for spray coating of a pipe with epoxy. Remember, it is always wise to add a brush lock on each side of your brush.

There are a few main factors to take into consideration when choosing your drill:

1. Torque and Speed

Your drill must provide enough torque and allow for variable speed settings. Ideally, it should deliver between 60Nm and 170Nm of torque, with RPM ranges from 1,000 to 3,000, depending on the cleaning job. Here’s a general breakdown:

• General Cleaning (light debris, grease, soft scale):
  1,000 – 1,500 RPM
  Suitable for PVC and softer materials.
• Descaling Cast Iron/Metal/Ceramics Pipes (moderate to heavy scale):
  1,500 – 2,500 RPM
  Best used with heavy-duty chains, carbide tips, or rasping tools.
• Hard Descaling (roots, thick deposits):
  2,000 – 3,000 RPM
  Only if your drill has sufficient torque and your shaft/tool are rated for high-speed use.
• While it’s possible to operate below 1,000 RPM, you’ll notice the chains bounce around inside the pipe rather than centralize. From 1,000 RPM upwards, centrifugal force helps the chains self-center for more efficient cleaning.

2. Torque Limiter (Slip Chuck)

• A torque limiter or slip chuck is crucial. It disengages the drive when the chain hits a solid obstruction, helping to prevent shaft kinking. Inertia build-up from the sudden stoppage will cause the shaft to kink if the limiter doesn’t react quickly enough.
• While it’s not a strict rule, metal chucks are often indicative of better-quality torque limiters.
• Be cautious with high speeds—especially if your drill lacks a good limiter. If a chain snags on a blockage, the delay in disengagement could lead to serious shaft damage.

3. Corded vs. Cordless Drills

You can use either a corded or cordless drill, but keep in mind:

• Cordless drills typically max out at 150Nm of torque.
  If using one, bring extra batteries so you don’t have to stop mid-job to recharge.
• Corded drills often provide more consistent power over longer periods.
• The drill must have a 10mm chuck.

4. Shaft Size and Torque

• Requirements
  Thinner shafts such as ¼” (6mm) and 5/16” (8mm) require less torque.
• Thicker shafts like ⅜” (10mm) and ½” (12mm) require more torque.
• Longer shafts also require more torque than shorter ones.

5. Drill Rotation & Shaft Direction

• Our flexible shafts are wound in opposite directions around a central mandrel, which means:
• You can run them in either direction of rotation with equal torque.
• This is especially useful when a blockage causes the chain to get stuck—just reverse the drill to free it.

Note: While most chains can rotate both ways, some specialty tools—like the torpedo chain or chain retrieval tool—are directional.

Our Drill Recommendations

• Cordless: DeWalt DCD1007
• Corded: Makita DF0300

We can make any length up to 35 meters. This can be done with a custom order which we place manually because the website only has options 5,10,15,20 and 30 meters. We do not recommend a shaft longer than this because at a length above 35m, the torque is very little and performance much limited. We rather recommend our customers to join two shafts of shorter lengths as opposed to getting one very long one. This will also offer the advantage of having less to carry around and keeping a spare shaft in your car as a backup or add on.

In PVC pipes – For descaling smaller PVC pipes of diameter 50mm (2”) or less, we recommend using the plain chains and the mini drain chains for both descaling blockage removal.

For PVC pipes with a diameter that is 75mm (3”) and above, we recommend using the circular chains with no hard tips for descaling, then the plain chain knockers with a drill head for blockage removal.

In Cast iron pipes – For descaling smaller cast iron and clay pipes of diameter 50mm (2”) or less, we recommend using the x-tip chains and the mini drain chains with hard metal bits for both descaling and blockage removal.

For cast iron and clay pipes with a diameter that is 75mm (3”) and above, we recommend using the circular chains with an extra drill head for descaling, then the x-tip chains with a drill head for blockage removal.

The main difference between our regular chains and circular chains is that the circular chains have a fixed diameter and will clean out the entire inner circumference of the pipe wall which makes them perfect for descaling.

On the other hand, our regular chain knockers are more suitable for blockage removal.

You can use a regular chain for descaling, but please note that it will take you a bit longer to achieve that goal compared to using a circular chain.

If you are accessing the sewer line through a toilet with a rooting machine, you probably know how much effort and time goes into removing and replacing the toilet pan.

You find yourself struggling in a confined space, and there is always the risk of getting a leaky connection when you are done.

Our flexible shaft is covered with a chemical and heat resistant sleeve which prevents damage to porcelain, so there is no need to remove a toilet pan in order to reach a soft blockage in the toilet waste line in close proximity to the toilet.

The important thing to have in mind is that you shouldn’t start the chains until they pass the porcelain and get to the sewer pipe because they can damage the porcelain.